Gearing Up

Since I really enjoyed doing my last interview, I asked my friend to recommend more talented crafters. I was impressed by TotusMel’s unique offerings on Etsy and approached her for an interview.

Tatting lace is not a craft I’ve seen much lately. How did you become interested in it?

I’ve been an avid knitter and crocheter since childhood, but I eventually bored of making scarves and blankets and I didn’t have time to do more elaborate projects with a toddler running about. I thought I would look for something new to try and discovered tatting. I first attempted shuttle tatting and after many a failed attempt I ran to the internet for help. I found needle tatting, taught myself in an evening and I was hooked.
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In the early part of the 20th century, many people in both Europe and America became quite fascinated with the Mysterious East. While treatment of those actually from the mysterious east was rather wretched, the both easterners and westerners were happy to borrow superficial details from each other’s culture, and this is well-reflected in late Victorian and Edwardian fashion. Whether you’re actually Asian and want to dress the part or you want to play a proto-otaku, there’s plenty of historical precedent for mixing up western and eastern dress.

The West’s fascination with Asian style is usually traced to the 1909 debut of the Ballets Russes in Paris. From this inspiration, many of the major French designers began incorporating Asian elements into their designs.
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I recently wrote to steampunk artisan and good friend Alexandra Sforza of Heterodyne Designs and the White Peacock Trading Company, asking if she would indulge me in a brief interview for my site. She was happy to oblige.

What got you interested in steampunk as a whole?

I grew up around Sci-Fi and Fantasy, and loved movies like Journey to the Center of the Earth, Indiana Jones and Allan Quartermain. I was reading Jules Verne in third grade, and taking apart stuff around the house a year later, so it’s really been a life-long thing. I’ve been collecting skeleton keys since I can remember, and it’s one of those things that just, BAM, hit me one day- I think likely my first issue of Girl Genius is what pushed me over the edge, and here I am, years later, enjoying the madness!
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Some people have complained that the motorcycle styling in Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull was incorrect, though it was built for the film. Personally, I think it’s just evidence that Indiana Jones takes place in an alternate universe with advanced motorcycle technology.

The original three Indiana Jones films are some of the finest pieces of dieselpunk out there, even if they were made well before the term was coined. They are absolute love letters to the pulp adventures of the 30s, well-made and exciting, with a great mix of real archaeology, myth, and technology.

Varying critical opinions on the new Indy film notwithstanding, (hey, I loved it) it does raise an interesting question. Considerable time has passed since the first three films, and not just for those of us watching the movies — Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull is set in 1957, a pretty late date for dieselpunk.

It is an unfortunate fact of time that it passes, and since we’re dealing with genres that are rooted in specific times (even if they don’t necessarily take place in those times) we must take into account the passage of time. The League of Extraordinary Gentlemen eventually ran into this problem in The Black Dossier: given a long enough story, you will run out of Victorian era to adventure in. But does this make The Black Dossier dieselpunk?

How much does any -punk genre depend strictly on the calendar, and how much on the feel of the piece? Crystal Skull still has all the pulp feel of the first three Indy movies, despite the overhanging threat of atomic war, and the Communists as villains still feel very much like the Nazis in the first three films. I would say that all four Indiana Jones films fit firmly in the dieselpunk genre because of their feel. Indy’s can-do spirit and the sense that an adventure is always a good idea still pervade the film, and I think that says more about a genre than a date does.

The Book of Imaginary Beasts, a bimonthly literary magazine on LiveJournal, recently published its steampunk issue. I recommend fans of steampunk fiction go check it out.

The “punk” in dieselpunk and steampunk obviously derives from their predecessor, cyberpunk, which got that half of its name from the anarchic, down-with-the-man attitude endemic to cyberpunk protagonists facing a dystopian world. While the underground movements of the future may remain a mystery, the underground movements of the past provide a fertile groundwork for characters in worlds not unlike our own.

The anarchist movement is the obvious place to start. Anarchism is a political philosophy that opposes authority and mandatory government. Anarchism as a social movement began in the second half of the 19th century and continued through the twentieth, producing many sub-types of anarchist thought. Anarchy was particularly popular in Europe between World Wars, to the point where anarchist communes were built in some parts of Spain during the Spanish revolution.

An anarchist is likely to be a free spirit with a combination of idealistic goals and a willingness to stand up to authority to see them through. While most anarchists are not violent, many were and are willing to do what’s necessary for freedom as they see it.

Another major element of the punk subculture is the DIY aesthetic. If you’ve ever wondered just what’s so bad about buying bondage pants at Hot Topic, well, this is the reason. Punks are expected to do for themselves, to make and to create, rather than bowing to what the corporate and popular elements are telling them they should wear and like.

DIY is already a huge element of the steampunk community online, with many people sewing or thrifting-and-repurposing their own clothing and building their own props, or supporting the work of individuals who sell their handmade items. In many respects, it’s easier to be DIY in a group this specialized - if you’re not doing it yourself, you’re probably not doing it at all.

In general, the overwhelming theme of punk could be called a fierce individualism. This manifests in every aspect of the culture, from the proliferation of sky pirates to the refusal of many individuals to define what, exactly, the fashion is. Keep this in mind and you won’t have any trouble putting the punk in your dieselpunk.

Some recent discussion on Steam Fashion on the subject of chatelaines interested me in further exploring the topic.

A chatelaine is an accessory commonly worn by women in the Victorian and earlier eras, often as a precursor to the purse. They began as the keyring worn by the householder’s wife in medieval times, and by the Victorian era the chatelaine most often consisted of a handful of small accessories attached by short chains to a pin or ring attached to a lady’s belt. A Victorian lady might be seen wearing a small pouch, a mirror, sewing accoutrements like a needle case or pin cushion.

I’m sure you are already thinking of ways to steam up a chatelaine! It’s really a very useful piece to carry in everyday life. Skeleton keys are both traditional and awesome-looking. Miniature screwdrivers and wrenches could join the more ladylike scissors, and a clear needle case might be replaced by a similar-looking small, clear container that contained any matter of useful substances. A Fisher space pen, while not cheap, would look quite at home as well. The specific tools carried can convey a lot about you, your hobbies, and what you feel you need at your side every day.

Incidentally, there is a precident for similar fashion in China:

Upper outer garments of women reached beyond the knees at the end of Guangxu reign. Some skirts were attached with 16 to 20 ribbons, with small silver bells tied at the end of every ribbon. Some gold or silver ornaments such as earpicks, toothpicks and small nippers were hung on the front part of garments.

The same “steamy” elements could be added to these beribboned skirts for those young ladies who seek adventure during the twilight of the Chinese empire.

In an earlier discussion on Steam Fashion, the idea of a Gentleman’s Chatelaine also came up. The one Sadeian Research produced for the community is very dashing as well as demonstrating that the chatelaine looks good and is practical for both genders.

The heart of any good fashion is in the details, and the chatelaines offer the opportunity for a fine range of beautiful and useful details that can really help bring a costume to life.

In case you haven’t heard, the online fiction magazine Imaginary Beasts is currently accepting steampunk-themed short fiction and art for the May issue. The deadline for fiction submission in May 10th, and for art is May 24th. I’ve already signed up and I’ll be writing about my project here as we get a little closer to the deadline.

Of course, any steampunk fiction collection leads to the inevitable discussion of what makes fiction steampunk. (It’s not quite so easy as gluing some gears to the manuscript, after all.) The key piece of any steampunk worldbuilding must be the technology. Steampunk without steam - that is, without modern or future technology incorporated in a Victorian-era-esque setting - is just gaslamp fantasy. While gaslamp fantasy is also fun and enjoyable, it’s not what we’ve set out to look for, now is it?

In any sub-genre of science fiction, it’s the job of a good author to find the delicate balance between overwhelming the reader with too many details and telling a story in a world that’s either too confusing or too boring for the reader to latch on. The best way to give a world depth without drowning the reader is to have a wealth of small details at the ready, but put them in only when they accent the scene.

For example, if Lady Windermere is enjoying a vacation out near the moors, you might note the mechanized butler fanning her, the steam-powered coach that takes her to the vicar’s house for dinner, or the fancy new Aetherweb Telediscussion Device she had installed so that her daughter can send pictures of her grandchildren from London. Each of these would give a different flavor to the setting, and each could be mentioned off-handedly when Lady Windermere was using that particular device.

Of course, the best fiction calls for solid characters first and foremost. Worldbuilding is important, but without interesting characters, even the most fascinating world might as well be empty.

Goggles are, of course, the penultimate steampunk accessory. (The ultimate steampunk fashion accessories, in case you’re curious, are gears.) It’s become almost a joke, as all standards do, and yet a good pair of goggles is often the first thing someone new to the subculture looks for. There are many, many beautiful goggles out there - most of which are priced appropriately for the workmanship that’s gone into them. I love a pair of gorgeous, hand-crafted brass goggles as much as the next person, but many of us can’t afford goggles running $50, $100, or even more. People new to the subculture may not want to invest that much in their first accessory. (Or heck, we may just want some left over for boots…)

With that in mind, I’ve collected some links to a variety of interesting goggles available for under $20 - many run under $10. Not all of them are ready to go out of the box. A little paint or accessorizing will steam them up considerably, but any of them should do for a starter set.

If you don’t want to buy online, or you’re out for a bargain, check out your local antique shops. Vintage welding goggles in both the “goggle” and the “safety glasses” varieties can often be found for less than $10 and sometimes even come in their original packaging. I’ve gotten most of my goggles in this manner, but I know not everyone has access to well-stocked (and decently priced) antique shops. So on that note - on to the links!

1. US Forge Shaded Brazing Goggles
   These are a nice basic pair of goggles. If you want the standard, these will do you.
2. Fibre Metal Safety Goggles
   The green lenses on these goggles would add a great touch of color to an outfit.
3. Dust Goggles
   Not obviously steampunk, no, but some painted details would go a long way on these basically sleek goggles.
4. Red Baron Goggles
   Ideal for pilots, sky pirates, and various other sorts who find themselves in control of zeppelins and planes from time to time.
5. WWII Replica Motorcycle Goggles
   Again, excellent for the dashing sort of person who may have taken my advice in finding a bomber jacket.
6. Korean War Surplus Goggles
   Strictly speaking, a bit late, but these goggles are big and unwieldy looking, great for small people who want big props that make them look crazier, and perfect if you’re expecting large explosions.
7. Swiss Motorcycle Goggles
   Unlike most pairs, these actually fold up into a small tin when you’re not using them, and often are intended to tie in the back rather than have elastic. I have a pair I keep in my bag for emergencies. You know, goggle emergencies.
8. Multi-colored Lens Goggles
   Perfect for the mad scientist who wants goggles to match his most outlandish outfit. You may want to give these a quick coat of paint, too.
9. Welding Goggle with Flip-Up Lens
   This is a shape and style of goggle you don’t see very often, so if you want something eye-catching and unique, these square-lensed goggles might be the way to go.
10. When In Doubt, DIY.
    It is, in fact, possible to make your own goggles. If you look around, you’ll find lots of different ideas for parts, but which is best for you depends on how much time you want to put in and what sorts of parts you have lying around.

Know of any other great goggles that aren’t too expensive? I’d love to see them! Please drop a link in the comments.

Your odds of finding the perfect pilot’s goggles at your local thrift store may be thin, but the chance of coming across a perfect bomber jacket for your pilot persona is surprisingly good. The trick to a good thrift experience is knowing what to look for, so here are some tips.

• Look And You Will Find
  You may not come across the perfect jacket the first time you go out. In fact, odds are good you won’t. The trick is persistance. Try a couple stores. Try them again in a week or two. Keep trying.
• Wait For the Perfect Price
  Some thrift stores, seeking to capitalize on the hipsters who waste too much money thrifting, have started pricing up things they think such shoppers will like. Sometimes those are also the things you like. Wait, and they will go on sale - or maybe you won’t get them. Don’t worry. If you wanted to pay more than you could afford, you’d be shopping at the mall, after all.
• Don’t Settle
  Don’t buy the first leather jacket you spot on the rack. Check out the color and the shape the leather is in. Is it cracking? Are there mysterious stains? Try it on. Don’t just ask yourself if you can pull it over your shoulders, make sure it fits well and is comfortable.
• Appreciate Character
  At the same time, you’re probably not going to find a pristine, vintage leather bomber jacket. The bomber jacket style is fairly timeless, however, and a little modding at home will take you a long way. You want your jacket to look like it’s lived through a few zeppelin explosions.

Hopefully these tips will help you to find the perfect bomber jacket for your next mission. If you have any other tips, feel free to share them in the comments.